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I'm using waxed chains with a Rohloff internal hub shifter - so no cross-chaining, no "pump" effect. Should I be rocking the chain laterally to simulate that effect? Does it matter where I apply the lube?

What if I got sidetracked and after using chain stripper solution I did not rinse with warm sink water. The chain air dried and was put into wax. Should anything be done after the fact? (Ie. dispose of hot wax, restrip chain etc). Thank you for the advice.

I’m not sure I understand why nickel is considered “galvanically neutral”, which is a term I think would only apply to an insulative material. My reading of the chart indicates that the galvanic potential between both titanium and nickel, and nickel and aluminum, is large enough for corrosion to occur. I can’t speak to the aerospace applications, but in many others, sacrificial anodic protection is used, commonly with magnesium or zinc. I guess in this case the nickel is mitigating the issue enough to work, given the mild operating conditions of a bottom bracket or other part of a bicycle. But I wonder if the larger benefit is coming from the compound staying in place better than grease, and as long as the dissimilar metal contact is minimized there really isn’t much galvanic corrosion occurring either way. Curious to hear your thoughts. Thanks!

Perfectly explained ! Thank you !

So. Water rinse with no final rinse with alcohol? Wouldn’t that be even better? That ensures the chain is drier after the degrease?

How many times can I use the stripper? I used it in a jar and cleaned 2 chains that was cold waxed after being ultrasound cleaned with ultra in brake fluid. Now I still have a good portion left from the 2 chains and the dirt is in the bottom of the jar. The 2 chains I cleansed got the hotwax after where I warmed up the super secret up to 125 celsius next I lowered the chain in the wax and first I decreased temperature to 85 celsius and next 75 celsius and was stirring the chain in the pot now and then and for sure there was no bubbles removing the chain to hang up for drying. When I will get a new chain in future I will add a piece of the "stripperbar" into the wax but can I use the wax again after this process

1. Mayor % of the wax will take off in a few km. 2. Mayor % of contacting surfaces will coat with wax in the first few km. The important think is that that little coat resist compresion, shear and water.

Science is win, great video!

Love it!

For bloody t v

I U how to install it tube for telivision

Never tried chain waxing, but this looks very promising! Is it possible to sous-vide in the bag with the StripChip as well? Sounds like it's hitting the right temperature that's the tricky part, without the "tower pot".

Do you still have any use for if you have them "stans darts", does this product work with them? And have an other question, will this work using on Fatbike-tires during wintertime or will it freeze up? Can you mix antifreeze to be able to run it as far as down -25C°(-13°F)?

Did I miss a step? It appears you put wax in the pot before you put the chip strip?

Thanks for the info Mattie. I appreciate knowing the folks behind the products and the team that works with Josh.

Strip chip chain stripping works very much like soap makers through "soaponification" with lye. I've begun using this recently but with commercial cleaner. Bravo

Will this wax work on a matte paint finish such as the matte paint on a Canyon Grizl bike?

Any idea what's happening to UK orders? Been waiting nearly a month... Not so much as a despatch note.

Tried it, newer again on my race bike. Works fine on the mtb on a racer its a pain in the ass

I love the chuck with the flip lever (better than thread on chucks) but it’s slightly bigger than I would prefer to carry for gravel racing. Lezyne’s Pocket Drive Pro is a better size to throw in a jersey pocket. A bit cheaper too

How often should one maintain the gasket?

Is the new cap the only update?

Like the title. Simple.

Why doesn’t this pump use the textured handle like the Tattico? What happened to the Bluetooth option?

Any appetite to put the Bluetooth pressure gauge on the Gravelero?

Will we be able to purchase the pump bracket separately? The old one, while chunkier and stronger looking, is oddly shaped and doesn't work with my frame and bottle cages. This one looks thinner and flatter, which is what I need.

Nice job Mattie!

Can you use the same lubricant that you use on a suspension fork to lube a pump?

Some mounting with a bottle cage shots would be helpful, thanks.

Any chance you’ll sell these new caps for existing owners? Great update. It’s been my only gripe with the existing pump, but not gonna shell out another $75 just for this.

Nothing personal to the staff of Silca but Josh is so good at these videos.

Hi Mattie, Congratulations on publishing your first video on the channel! 🎉 This is just the beginning of a successful and rewarding journey.

Haha always put it there but for no reason whatsoever. Must have saved so many watts over the years 😁

Bugger! Bought one of these last month for summer gravel rides ☹

You say this is for "hot wax" is it ok to used for drip wax treatment as well? I imagine you'd need to let the chain dry completely?

It is the first time I wax the chain. I clean the chain with Chain Stripper (fantastic) and used the bain-marie method using the bag (I left the chain too long in the wax to cool down and had a lot of residue sticking to the outside and the chain was like a rock, but now I have learnt my lesson). After the first ride (which softened the chain) I cleaned it with a microfiber cloth and applied super secret with the advice given in other videos, a drop at each joint, run the chain, pass the finger etc. and left it 24 hours. Yesterday I did another ride and I must say that I am very pleased. Very clean drivetrain, now I can touch the transmission without having any dirt in my fingers, at most a little bit of wax and dust (seems like some kind of miracle to me) which is the main reason I wanted to try the wax because I hate all the sludge and the process of degrease and re-lubricating, the drivetrain is also very quiet and the shifts are smooth. I wanted to write this comment to thank Josh for his fantastic work which makes a Sunday racer like me that much happier. I think I will be using only wax for my transmission from now on. Thank you from Italy! PS Just one question, if I understand correctly the wax does not protect against rust. Now some years I stay abroad during the winter for three to four months and the bike stays at home without anyone to look after it. Is there a risk of the chain rusting? If so, what do you recommend doing, would a hot wax bath before leaving it be a good method or is it better to put an oily lubricant?

You had me at lateral articulation of the chain.

Great video! Thanks

Looking forward to mine coming in!

Someone please convince me about the measurable benefits of a waxed chain. For the record I'm a bike mechanic of 10 years and I chase marginal gains. I've never used a waxed chain myself. I use good quality oil based lubes and keep my chain nice and clean. I race hill climbs and TT's in the UK. I am currently super pessimistic about waxed chains. I've fitted pre-waxed new chains at customers request so, a few questions... 1. Friction. When I hold a clean oil lubricated chain in my hand, it flops and moves about freely. A new pre-waxed chain is stiff and sticky. That to me suggests more friction. 2. Noise. A waxed chain is definately noisier than a clean oil lubricated chain when the bike is on the workstand. That again suggests more friction. 3. Cleaner? The waxed chain throws flecks of wax off continuously all over the bike, the rear mech, the wheel, the brake rotor. A good oil based lube applied properly, doesn't do this. 4. Extended chain life. I just don't believe the numbers being thrown about. 15,000km and no measurable chain wear??? I just don't believe it. 5. Self healing. Wax is a solid and it will reamin a solid on your chain as it does not get hot in use. If a part of the chain becomes wax free it will remain wax free until you re-wax it. An oil based lube is a liquid so it moves about and will continue to lubricate all of the parts of the chain during use. 6. The faff. It seems like a lot of faffing about. 7. The cost. A customer recently purchased a new 'cleaned and waxed' chain. It was a Shimano chain with RRP of about £30. The waxed version of exactly the same chain was £120. The firm that waxed it probably paid less than £20 for the chain at trade prices so a mark up of £100 to 'clean and wax' a chain seems to me like a total rip off. Also the cost of the pots and wax seems a lot compaired to a good quality oil lube. 8. Other industrys. Try googling 'wax as a lubricant.' Pretty much the only place it is used is on bike chains. Every other industry I could find uses oils and greases... I'd appreciate peoples thoughts on this, its been going round in my head for a while. But remember I'm looking for measurable benefits that disprove my random thoughts listed above. Thanks, Ben.

I use a quality automotive citrus degreaser as I professionally detail vehicles on stripping my chains of any contaminants and then rinse in water. If you do this to a used chain and dry the chain, then simply use the Silca wax! If a new chain, you can do the same or use the Silca wafer for cleaning off the factory lube of a new chain.

Can also use a wire hanger to hold the chain or coupler so there is no chance for the coupler to fall in.

I just use diesel to clean and rube the chain at the same time. It works for me.

Now I'm well convinced that a narrower bar is faster and won't cause you control problem. But can you further test in the WT how narrow is too narrow? Let's say from 40 all the way down to 30 or even this 26. 40 vs 38 vs 36 vs 34 vs 32 vs 30 vs 28 vs 26. Then tell: 1) Which bar width is the breaking point of diminished return? 2) Which point is the breaking point of comfort? That means when you really have to put effort into "riding" the bike or have some very noticible handling issues. I know from my own experience that 38 is not narrow at all, before all of this narrow thing kicked off. I got a 38mm bar for my wife purely because she has narrow shoulders and when I ride the bike, I don't feel a thing at all! Which suprised me quite a lot given just few years ago how these bars are being said to be "sketchy". But I just completely unaware of the aero benefits of it at all, albeit I made some downhill PBs but I just thought it's just the day that I went bold. Now I'm in the process of chasing this new seemingly low hanging fruit in my pursuit of free speed, but just wondering if it will be OK to go very narrow, let's say, 32, because that's the narrowest I can find. But that one is 32 hoods and drops. Don't even know if the 32 drop will make downhill scary or sprinting weird. The other more seemingly rational option is a 36 hoods 40 drops bar with aero top. I know I can just get both and try myself, but I really like some input from the experts. Also obviously I don't have a windtunnel at home.

I set up my Kona Sutra with a 1x12 Sram Eagle XO AXS Long cage derailleur, and the aluminum Derailleur hangar just isn’t strong enough to handle the shifting loads. This is certainly the answer to my problem…

Hey Travis - I see you went with the Pirelli Gravel H tires. I have been really wanting to try these but there have been mixed reviews when it comes to punctures. What setup did you run with tires for unbound? Did you go with inserts? Any evidence of puncture? Thanks again and great job this year!

What are your thoughts of steam cleaning the chain?

Is this PFAS free?

Nice video, but what do I do with my single speed? 😅

I want this but max pressure 60psi. Personally never hit those pressures but that should cover ~all gravel riders